Friday, August 4, 2023

Day 6 - Estella to Torres de Río (Camino Frances)




On this day, we knew not to start too early.  There was the promise of something amazing if you timed it correctly.  Outside of Estella, approximately 3km or so, awaiting just around a bend in the road, there is a fountain.  Not just any fountain though... a fountain full of wine!  You'll have to watch the video below to see it for yourself.  We consider ourselves very lucky.  There are stories of pilgrims that eagerly arrive only to find the fountain empty.  Each day, the Bodega Irache fills it with 100 liters; once it is gone for the day, it's gone.  The fountain is open from 8am to 8pm.


Ayegui is the town that hosts the Bodega Irache.  Cool fact: The winery bottles a line of tempranillo in this rioja country called PRADO IRACHE.  Sad fact: The Prado part of the name only refers the rolling meadows that the grapes grow in.  Happy fact:  We are still pretty proud to see Prado plastered all over Spain.

 

We carried on, believing their were storm clouds behind us.
But the arrows kept pointing us in the right direction.



We paused for a good breakfast: café con leche and fresh croissants. 


While we knew we had a long haul of a walk; our original plan was to stay in Los Arcos, but there were no rooms for us.  The long path to Torres del Río was our only option.  Thankfully, we found some new camigos, Margarite and Eric.  We strolled the long gravel paths and time flew talking with them.


When we did arrive in Los Arcos, we made a decision to taxi forward the 8km to Torres del Río.


We were blessed with a refreshing snack and drinks upon arrival at a very unique and lovely albergue, La Pata de la Oca.  It's medieval theme was stunning, mysterious and yet welcoming.  Alfonso waited on us hand and foot and our pilgrim dinner was filled with beautiful people.  We loved spending time meeting them all.





Day's end stats:
Start:6:37 am @ Albergue Capuchinos Rocamador ; Estella
Km: 25
Miles: 15.5
End: 1:00 pm @  La Pata de la Oca; Torres del Río

 

Thursday, August 3, 2023

Day 5 - Puente La Reina to Estella (Camino Frances)

We've been out of the country for a week at this point.  On this day, June 13th, we gladly had an uneventful day.  We left Puente La Reina around 7am feeling pretty accomplished that we were making gains on those endless kilometers and goals pointing us in the right direction.



We had some beautiful views along the rises and dips of our trail.  We kept ourselves busy and amused, too.


I met Ann Marie from California and we strolled along exchanging stories and being hopeful for all that our Camino would bring.

We came across our very first open air "donativo" - table set up specifically for pilgrims as they walk the Camino.  Snacks, water, or little offerings that anyone could take for the price of whatever you could afford.  On this morning, we found tostadas with olive oil and lots of nuts.  It is the sweetest way to realize that the pilgrims are always cared for as they walk their own way.



By the time we arrived at our destination of Estella, I realized I was earning my first blisters on the pad of my feet.  All of those lovely stairs are my favorite. Ugh.




Day's end stats:
Start:7:15 am @ albergue Jakue; Puente La Reina
Km: 21.7
Miles: 13.5
End: 1:30 pm @ Albergue Capuchinos Rocamador  
Video: LINK



Wednesday, August 2, 2023

Day 4 - Pamplona to Puente La Reina (Camino Frances)

If you walk into a big urban city, you have to walk out of it.

Probably one of the biggest pet peeves on the Camino we had was walking alongside the roads outside of the larger cities.  Most of the time, our paths were wide and protected from traffic, but other times, all we had was the white line and some gravel between us and oncoming vehicles.

Once back to the countryside, the terrain would change three to five times, if not more, before we would find our end destination for the day.  On this morning, we encounter more large rocks and loose gravel.  Chato was constantly dumping it out of his oversized boots.




Today, we had a much different horizon to aim for - El Alto del Perdón.

My research, before the Camino told me that we should expect high winds at the peak.  In my mind, we had already surpassed and survived the Pyrenees, so it couldn't be THAT bad, right?  In fact, we didn't have any wind at all.  We did have lots of fog and low lying clouds that kept us from the views below (and behind us of Pamplona).  We knew the road ahead, to get to the "Mount of Forgiveness" would be a challenge when we saw it in the distance.

7.5 miles later, at the top we enjoyed the beautiful sculpture that quotes: "Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas"
"Where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars.”


Thankful for simple, packable snacks, we carried on.



We had come to learn that a long walk deserved a Spanish coke.  What's so good about that, you say?  Glass bottle pour, extremely large ice, and a slice of lemon, every single time.

 

Our albergue Jakue was a welcome site.  We were able to do laundry, get a snack and hit that Spanish siesta before our pilgrim dinner.


 

Day's end stats:
Start:6:15 am @ Hotel Tres Reyes; Pamplona
Km: 23.8
Miles: 14.8
End: 1:35 pm @ albergue Jakue 
Video: LINK


REST DAY #1: PAMPLONA

Pamplona is full of history, food, and beautiful people.  It was easy to take an extra day here to rest.  Our bodies were adapting to the 12-15 mile walks, but walking around Pamplona was a breeze.

I found a new bracelet to add to my Basque one that I picked up in St. Jean Pied de Port.  I purchased a few more to easily toss into my backpack and carry home.


Pamplona is full of literary genius, Ernest Hemingway, who first arrived in Spain as a reporter.  So impressed by all he saw, he returned and stayed in the region, which he used as a backdrop for his writing.  Bullfights, fishing, and food all pay honor to Hemingway in Pamplona.  He can be seen all over town.


We spent the day being tourists.  The streets twist and wind.  They are colorful and loud.  We enjoyed finding Camino shells all over town.



We knew we would miss the festival of San Fermin.  Signs all over town reminded us.  In the weeks ahead, it would resound throughout Spain and along the Camino as we walked west.  Mornings would bring us into small cafes for breakfast and all the patrons would be gathered around the tv to see the running of the bulls.  Did you know there is not ONE "Running of the Bulls" but one event every day for an entire week!?  So, if you don't get injured the first time, try, try, again!  Oh my.


Next stop: DAY FOUR - Puente La Reina



 

Tuesday, August 1, 2023

Day 3 - Zubiri to Pamplona (Camino Frances)

Starting to get the routine, we began to realize that our days needed an earlier start to get us to where we wanted to be.  With our crew of camigas, Ana, Donna, and Kathy, we all recovered from the previous day's rain and were ready to jump forward into Pamplona.  Sadly, we didn't know it when this picture was taken, but it would be the last time all of us would be together.  That's the camino.  You never know what is in front of you.  Some camigos choose to walk at different paces.  Some have unexpected injuries and need to take a break or even leave the camino.  Some camigos come and go and you bump into them over time throughout your own camino.  The camino is just like life; our paths will cross again, we hope.  
Out of Zubiri, we encountered the beginning of the urban area ahead of us.  Lots of electrical lines and factories stole our peaceful forest views.  We walked along lots of paved roads, to the side of traffic (at times) and lots of choices between slopes and stairs.




Now,  let's talk about those slopes.  The photos are difficult to demonstrate that the paths and their paved slate stones were 30° to 45° declined angles.  After the rains from the day before, everything was damp and mossy.  Somewhere along this one...
...it didn't matter how conscious I was or how slow I attempted to stay on top of my footing - I slipped and landed right down on my tail feathers.  The sweetest man behind me immediately offered his assistance.  Everyone helps one another here.  (see the video below for a visual.)

I regained my composure and we met back up with Ana; more slopes and stairs ahead, we were eager to find Pamplona.



The temperatures were the hottest we had experienced since arriving and the sun wasn't helping.  As we made our way through the suburbs outside of Pamplona, the street signs and crosswalks were driving us nuts trying to find our little yellow arrows.  At one point, we were willing to give up and get a taxi.  Finally, we found the ancient fortress wall of Pamplona, built to protect the city in the early 1500s.  Cool fact: the walls around Pamplona are 5 kilometers around.  Uncool fact: we couldn't find the entrance to save ourselves. 


On the verge of throwing myself on the grass and taking a recovery nap, ask and the Camino will provide.  There before us was the ancient drawbridge and the portal to the city.


What was quiet on the outside, erupted into a mid-day party on the inside of a Saturday afternoon in Pamplona.


We were overwhelmed by this city, especially after being out on the trails for the last three days.  We found our hotel (a splurge for two nights to include a day to spend wandering the streets of Pamplona).  After settling in and taking advantage of the Spanish siesta, we found Ana and hit the town for PINTXOS (tapas).


Sunday would be a rest day in this beautiful city.
So much more to come.


Day's end stats:
Start:7:20 am @ Albergue Suseia; Zubiri
Km: 24.3
Miles: 15
End: 2:10 pm @ Hotel Tres Reyes
Video: LINK